This page was created to give raw data and information to quickly reference for growing.
Section 1: Regrow list - A list of all of the fruits and vegetables I was able to regrow from local or store bought produce. Although I did not have time to try and regrow everything from the list of A-Z on this website of fruits and vegetables found in Myanmar and Thailand, I am almost certain all of them can be regrown with relative ease.
For starting, here is a list of fruits and vegetables that I was able to regrow from locally purchased products. We will go into more detail in later sections, but this is the raw list.
Take in mind that a new raw (unrefined or processed) product are in many cases, the fundamental component in more complex products. For example, if we grow something like cherries that was not found in any of our produce markets, we can now process cherries into cherry pies, cherry jam, cherry preserves, cherry mixed drinks, cherry cheesecake, cherry parfait, Cherry Garcia (cherry ice cream), cherry cocktails, cherry chutney, cherry chicken, cherry pie crumb bars, grilled lamb pork chops with a cherry port sauce, and chocolate cherry brownies. This is another reason why we must have as many raw products in our market as possible. Look at all of the enormous diversity of things we can create based on one new item.
For the location, M = Myanmar, T = Thailand, Store = bought from a commercial supermarket that has access to import things not normally found in the list. By being able to regrow these items successfully, we can create new raw products into our market.
For the origin, Seed = Germinated the seed, then transferred to soil, Cutting = Took a cutting from the plant or tree, placed in soil or water to grow roots, then transferred to soil, Plant = Took the plant or tree with roots and planted in soil and verified new root, leaf, stems, and shoot growth, Rhizome/Tuber/Clove = Took the actual ginger, potato, clove, or sweet potato and planted in soil and verified new root, leaf, stems, and shoot growth, Base = Cut the top, stems, or stalks and planted the base (bottom portion and roots) and verified new root, leaf, stems, and shoot growth.
Continuous are for herbs and vegetables that can be continuously harvested such as parsley, celery, dill, and coriander and all of the types of mint, basil, and mustard greens. I would highly recommend growing these first because these will provide a continuous supply of healthy vegetables. Other vegetables that can be continuously grown are amaranthus blitnum, spinach, arugula, beet greens, bok choy, chickory, cilantro, kale, swiss chard, turnip greens, green onions, chives, top part of leeks, broccoli, fiddle heads, carrot greens, asparagus, romaine lettuce, beets, collard greens, radicchio, cress, chives, mache, sorrel, cauliflower, anise, bee balm, chamomile, tea, lemon balm, oregano, rosemary, sage, bay leaves, lavender, rue, and thyme. Here is a huge list of herbs that can be continuously harvested.
Take in mind that vegetables and herbs that can be continuously grown in soil need to have the nutrients either replenished or have a healthy supply from the beginning. Using potting mix or store bought soil may have the basic nutrients like Phosphorus, Potassium, and Nitrogen, but may lack iron, zinc, calcium, and many other nutrients that plants need. That means that if you use store bought soil and do not use other organic soil rich in nutrients, eventually, the continuously grown plants may slowly become less nutritious. Although, still better than not eating them at all.
I would recommend planting the vegetables in the ground with good soil, adding fertilizer and organic material, and watering. If not, then place inside a pot with good soil, adding fertilizer and organic matter, and watering. Organic matter can be in the form of some discarded organic matter like vegetable cuttings, watermelon rinds, banana, carrot, and mango peels. For example, placing some cut carrot peels above the soil near the base of the vegetable, covering the carrot peels in soil, allowing time for the carrot peel to decompose, then after a month, adding some cut banana peels, adding more soil to cover the banana peels, and leaving for another month, and so on. Other reasons to grow plants and trees in soil, as opposed to pots, are to connect these plants and trees through the underground fungi web to each other for the the transfer of nutrients, the walls of pots may inhibit root growth, and worms that provide nutrition to plants and trees generally do not enter or live in pots. For plants and trees that produce vegetables and fruits, vegetables and fruits require a tremendous amount of resources. Because of that, most farmers heavily use fertilizers. For plants and trees that do not produce much if any edible or large fruits and vegetables, growing them in pots is not really an issue because those plants and trees do not consume as much nutrients from the soil.
In most cases, these vegetables are grown in the shade and may only need a cup or two of water every few days. Fruits will have a "NA" because fruit trees are harvested year after year. However, fruit trees may be seasonal and only harvested at certain months of the year or once a year. The vegetables listed as "Yes" can be harvested every day, week, or month depending on growth.
For the type of lighting to provide the trees and plants, in most cases, trees like direct sunlight and plants like shade and partial sunlight. Direct sunlight means the tree likes to grow in full sunlight. Partial sunlight means the plant needs some direct sunlight, but prefers to be protected against the midday sun (when the sun is directly above and the hottest parts of the day.) In places with cooler temperatures, leaving some plants in direct sunlight can be beneficial. Places with hotter temperatures may provide plants with 2 to 4 hours of partial sunlight during sunrise, shade during the midday, and another 2 to 4 hours of partial sunlight in the evening.
For the duration of lighting, the general rule for plants are about 6 to 8 hours of partial sunlight. For trees, 8 to 12 hours of direct sunlight. Part of the reason is that plants are more susceptible to heat than trees. Therefore, plants need less sunlight and more protection from heat and direct sunlight. That is part of the reason why some plants are stated to prefer shade. Practically all plants and trees go through a process called photosynthesis to synthesize foods from carbon dioxide and water. The shade is not so much the reason for healthy plants, as opposed to the plant needing protection from the direct sun on hot days and in hot weather. Trees are more tolerant to sunlight and some like direct sunlight, so leaving trees out in direct sunlight are beneficial for the tree. Also, fruits tend to do better with exposure to direct sun. That is the reason that fruits on the side of trees that face the sun are generally sweeter and healthier.
Trees are far larger than plants and trees are designed to control their own level of sunlight. If a tree does not tolerate high heat and weather, then the tree may have a tall and slender design. For example, pine trees in the US can grow hundreds and hundreds of feet tall in some of the hottest weather, and are very slender and narrow. That means that when the sun is directly above and during the hottest part of the day, most of the tree has protected itself from direct sunlight. For some trees in areas with cooler temperatures, the trees may grow more branched out with leaves exposed from a huge and wide canopy. That allows the tree to spread the leaves out and get as much sunlight on the leaves as possible. For some places that get extremely hot and have lots of rainfall, some trees have a larger and thicker canopy that protects the rest of the branches and leaves below the top canopy, and the tree has more of a box shape. Some places have extremely hot temperatures and low rainfall, so the tree may have smaller thicker but thinner leaves and be more spread out with branches and have less leaves. The thicker branches allow the tree to have more surface area to reduce heat, the thicker bark protect the tree, and the leaf design protects the leaf from heat damage while still allowing the leave to go through photosynthesis.
For the best reference, look for plants and trees that already exist in the local area and see the design of the tree, location, total amount of sunlight exposure, and the health of the vegetable plant or fruit tree for your area. If that tree or plant does not exist, the best method was to place the plant or tree in a pot and move the plant and tree around different areas that provide direct sun or shade and get an understanding of the plants and trees. In many cases, I put some trees and plants in direct sunlight, placed some in shade, covered some while exposing others, and learned which plants liked the different parameters. Then, I found places to plant those trees and plants based on their sunlight preference. For example, if I put a plant in the shade, some plants would grow with more branches and leaves toward the sun side than the shade side. That allowed me to understand that the plant wants more sun because the plant keeps putting nutrients and energy to grow more branches and leaves on the side that was facing the sun. For some plants, placing the sun in direct midday sun caused the plant to dry or wilt, which lead me to understand that the plant needed protection from the midday sun. Eventually, I placed that plant in a location that had a tree that could protect the plant from direct sunlight, but exposed the plant to sunrise and sunset sunlight.
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